Dragon Fruit Growing Guide
(Hylocereus Undatus)
Dragon fruit cactus also known as Hylocereus is extremely common in cactus grafting. But people rarely able to relate how this cactus with the red round and sweet dragon fruit sold in the market. Generally speaking, if you leave the rootstock to grow, they will eventually end up producing the fruit, I mean the big and tasty cactus fruit.
These are the examples of cactus grafted to Hylocereus in my collection.
Today I would like to share about Dragon fruit cultivation and a bit of my current crops recently grown in the farm.
BACKGROUND
Family: Cactaceae
Scientific Name: Hylocereus
undatus
Common Name
English: Strawberry pear, Dragon fruit, Night blooming
cereus.
Spanish: Pitahaya, Tuna, Nopal, Pitajaya, St.
Vincent and the Grenadines: Mountain pear or Rock pear.
Origin: South, Central
and North America.
Climate: Pitaya grows well in tropical
and subtropical climates.
DESCRIPTION
Pitaya are fast-growing,
perennial, vine-like cacti. They have triangular (3- sided), green, fleshy,
jointed, many-branched stems. Each stem segment has 3 flat, wavy wings, with
corneous margins and may have 1-3 small spines, or are spineless. The stem
section of pitaya forms aerial roots which adhere to the surface upon which
they grow or climb.
FLOWER
The pitaya flower is white,
extremely showy, edible, fragrant and bell shaped, about 1ft long and 9 inches
wide. It is a night blooming flower.
Unopened flower buds can be cooked and
eaten as a vegetable; opened flowers can be used for tea.
POLLINATION
Artificial cross pollination
between the different types planted, ensures better fruit set and size. To
ensure good fruit production, plant 2 or 3 different species. To artificially
pollinate a plant, use a paint brush to transfer the pollen grains to the
stigma early in the morning, or during the evenings before the flowers close.
FRUIT
The fruit is a fleshy berry,
which is oblong with red and yellow scaly peel. The flesh may be red or white
depending on the species. Seeds are very small, numerous and black, embedded
within the flesh. The red flesh varieties contain lycopene which is a natural
antioxidant known to fight cancer, heart disease, and lowers blood pressure.
PRODUCTION
VARIETIES
Several species with varying skin
and pulp colors, such as red skin/red pulp, red skin/white pulp and yellow
skin/white pulp are produced worldwide. Propagation
Seedlings are slow growing, and unreliable for propagation - Healthy mature
stem segments of 6 - 15 inches are used. A slanted cut is made at the stem
base, this is left in a shaded area for about 5-7 days to dry and heal before
being planted out directly in the field.
SITE SELECTION
Pitaya plants should be planted
in an open well-lit sunny area for best growth and fruit production. Soil
Pitaya can be grown in a wide range of soils. Soils that are well drained and
high in organic matter are recommended. Wind Avoid windy areas as strong
consistent winds can damage the trellises or other types of support provided
for the stems.
SPACING
Plants are spaced:
With the concrete posts - WR 8ft
X 10ft BR
With fence or wall - WR 4ft X 4ft
BR
PLANTING
Plant the cured cuttings directly
into the soil at a depth of at least 1½ - 2 inches. Provide a stake as support
for the new plants, e,g. wooden or concrete posts, a wall or a fence.
Below are the current pictures of my set up.
Below are the current pictures of my set up.
SUPPORT STRUCTURES
Pitaya plants grow quite large,
spreading outward from the main stem. A strong support structure should be
established to avoid snapping of the matured plant parts.
Here in the tropics, the type of
support structures used are concrete posts, bamboo or wooden sticks, old tyres,
coconut trees, fence and rock or wall.
FERTILIZING
Well composted manure 0.5 to 1 kg/plant at planting, (best in wet season) and every two months after apply 0.1 to 0.2 kg/plant NPK fertilizer. Do not
apply more than 5kg NPK fertilizer per plant per year.
IRRIGATION
Pitaya belong to the Cactus
family and tolerate dry conditions. A dry period is necessary for the plant to
flower, however as the fruit matures, water is needed to increase the fruit set
and fruit weight.
WEEDING
Weeds close to the plant should
be removed manually. Use a herbicide with a shield for weeds along the inter
row space.
TRAINING
The main stem has to be trained
for it to be able to use the support structure. Tie the stem to the support
structure as it grows. Once this stem reaches the top of the support, cut the
tips to induce branching and tie again to the support.
PRUNING
Pruning may induce flowering and
stem branching. Pruning is done to remove all damaged, diseased or dead stem
and any stem that touches the soil. Pruning is also done after harvesting is
completed or it can be done 1 - 3 times per year.
PESTS AND DISEASES
Birds, thrips and mealybugs
present some damage for pitaya. Anthracnose is the major disease that is of
concern.
PHYSIOLOGICAL PROBLEMS
1. During the rainy season,
particularly so in areas with sandy soil, the mature pitaya fruits must be
harvested on time to prevent the fruits from absorbing excess water which
causes them to split open.
2. Always use a shield when
applying Glyphosate or any herbicide to avoid damaging the plant.
HARVESTING
Forty to forty-five days (40-45
days) after fruit set, the mature fruit turns a full red or yellow colour.
Pitaya fruits are due for harvesting when a hole appears inside the cavity of
the fruit and the wings turn red. Some species are thorny and wearing a pair of
leather gloves at harvesting is recommended. The fruits are to be carefully
removed from the plants taking care not to damage the skin. Pitaya fruits can
be kept at room temperature for more than 7 days, and in plastic bags in the
refrigerator for about 24 days.
That is pretty much about it on how to grow Dragon fruit.
These are the result after a month transplanting. Better go with longer cuttings to shorten the period taken to bloom them. The shoots produced are also on thicker side too.
Thanks for reading guys.
Here are some bonus.
That is pretty much about it on how to grow Dragon fruit.
These are the result after a month transplanting. Better go with longer cuttings to shorten the period taken to bloom them. The shoots produced are also on thicker side too.
Here are some bonus.
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