Wednesday, December 18, 2019

How To Grow Cactus For Food: Hylocereus Undatus

Dragon Fruit Growing Guide
(Hylocereus Undatus)

Dragon fruit cactus also known as Hylocereus is extremely common in cactus grafting. But people rarely able to relate how this cactus with the red round and sweet dragon fruit sold in the market. Generally speaking, if you leave the rootstock to grow, they will eventually end up producing the fruit, I mean the big and tasty cactus fruit.

These are the examples of cactus grafted to Hylocereus in my collection.




Today I would like to share about Dragon fruit cultivation and a bit of my current crops recently grown in the farm.


BACKGROUND

Family:                             Cactaceae
Scientific Name:               Hylocereus undatus

Common Name
English:                Strawberry pear, Dragon fruit, Night blooming cereus.
Spanish:               Pitahaya, Tuna, Nopal, Pitajaya, St. Vincent and the Grenadines: Mountain        pear or Rock pear.

Origin:                              South, Central and North America.

Climate:                            Pitaya grows well in tropical and subtropical climates.

DESCRIPTION    

Pitaya are fast-growing, perennial, vine-like cacti. They have triangular (3- sided), green, fleshy, jointed, many-branched stems. Each stem segment has 3 flat, wavy wings, with corneous margins and may have 1-3 small spines, or are spineless. The stem section of pitaya forms aerial roots which adhere to the surface upon which they grow or climb.



FLOWER

The pitaya flower is white, extremely showy, edible, fragrant and bell shaped, about 1ft long and 9 inches wide. It is a night blooming flower. 



Unopened flower buds can be cooked and eaten as a vegetable; opened flowers can be used for tea.



POLLINATION

Artificial cross pollination between the different types planted, ensures better fruit set and size. To ensure good fruit production, plant 2 or 3 different species. To artificially pollinate a plant, use a paint brush to transfer the pollen grains to the stigma early in the morning, or during the evenings before the flowers close.

FRUIT

The fruit is a fleshy berry, which is oblong with red and yellow scaly peel. The flesh may be red or white depending on the species. Seeds are very small, numerous and black, embedded within the flesh. The red flesh varieties contain lycopene which is a natural antioxidant known to fight cancer, heart disease, and lowers blood pressure.


PRODUCTION

VARIETIES

Several species with varying skin and pulp colors, such as red skin/red pulp, red skin/white pulp and yellow skin/white pulp are produced worldwide. Propagation Seedlings are slow growing, and unreliable for propagation - Healthy mature stem segments of 6 - 15 inches are used. A slanted cut is made at the stem base, this is left in a shaded area for about 5-7 days to dry and heal before being planted out directly in the field.

SITE SELECTION

Pitaya plants should be planted in an open well-lit sunny area for best growth and fruit production. Soil Pitaya can be grown in a wide range of soils. Soils that are well drained and high in organic matter are recommended. Wind Avoid windy areas as strong consistent winds can damage the trellises or other types of support provided for the stems.

SPACING

Plants are spaced:

With the concrete posts - WR 8ft X 10ft BR
With fence or wall - WR 4ft X 4ft BR

PLANTING

Plant the cured cuttings directly into the soil at a depth of at least 1½ - 2 inches. Provide a stake as support for the new plants, e,g. wooden or concrete posts, a wall or a fence.

Below are the current pictures of my set up.













SUPPORT STRUCTURES

Pitaya plants grow quite large, spreading outward from the main stem. A strong support structure should be established to avoid snapping of the matured plant parts.
Here in the tropics, the type of support structures used are concrete posts, bamboo or wooden sticks, old tyres, coconut trees, fence and rock or wall.

FERTILIZING

Well composted manure 0.5 to 1 kg/plant at planting, (best in wet season) and every two months after apply 0.1 to 0.2 kg/plant NPK fertilizer. Do not apply more than 5kg  NPK fertilizer per plant per year.

IRRIGATION

Pitaya belong to the Cactus family and tolerate dry conditions. A dry period is necessary for the plant to flower, however as the fruit matures, water is needed to increase the fruit set and fruit weight.

WEEDING

Weeds close to the plant should be removed manually. Use a herbicide with a shield for weeds along the inter row space.

TRAINING

The main stem has to be trained for it to be able to use the support structure. Tie the stem to the support structure as it grows. Once this stem reaches the top of the support, cut the tips to induce branching and tie again to the support.

PRUNING

Pruning may induce flowering and stem branching. Pruning is done to remove all damaged, diseased or dead stem and any stem that touches the soil. Pruning is also done after harvesting is completed or it can be done 1 - 3 times per year.

PESTS AND DISEASES

Birds, thrips and mealybugs present some damage for pitaya. Anthracnose is the major disease that is of concern.

PHYSIOLOGICAL PROBLEMS

1. During the rainy season, particularly so in areas with sandy soil, the mature pitaya fruits must be harvested on time to prevent the fruits from absorbing excess water which causes them to split open.
2. Always use a shield when applying Glyphosate or any herbicide to avoid damaging the plant.

HARVESTING

Forty to forty-five days (40-45 days) after fruit set, the mature fruit turns a full red or yellow colour. Pitaya fruits are due for harvesting when a hole appears inside the cavity of the fruit and the wings turn red. Some species are thorny and wearing a pair of leather gloves at harvesting is recommended. The fruits are to be carefully removed from the plants taking care not to damage the skin. Pitaya fruits can be kept at room temperature for more than 7 days, and in plastic bags in the refrigerator for about 24 days.


That is pretty much about it on how to grow Dragon fruit.

These are the result after a month transplanting. Better go with longer cuttings to shorten the period taken to bloom them. The shoots produced are also on thicker side too.




Thanks for reading guys.

Here are some bonus.




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